First there was rebar (fuzzy guy not included). Then there was the
wrestling of the PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) tubing to follow the
rebar. Once aligned, we tied the tubing to the rebar with zip
the tubes start & end
Once installed, stepping Creative
in the same
place on the tubing is not cool! around
the shower drain
tubing terminates at a manifold. Both ends of the tubing connect to
the manifold creating a loop of no longer than 300'. There are a total of 13
loops that will provide heat to the whole house. The manifold contains valves that turn
water on & off to each loop. If an area requires heat, a valve
opens bringing hot water into the loop dedicated to that area.
there was the dog. :-)
drilled 3/4" holes for larger tubing that will eventually bring heat to
the accessory shed in the back yard.
RADIANT TUBING IN JOISTS FOR UPPER LEVEL HEATING
To heat the upper floor we ran tubing between the joists that hold up the
floor above. Talk about wrestling. Holes drilled in the joists
allowed for a continuous run of tubing (up to 300') - starting at the
manifold - up and down a few joist bays - then back to the manifold.
drilled holes to insert tubing through. Once a loop of tubing is laid
out, bay by bay, it is held into place by clips and sheet metal plates that disperse
heat from the tube to the hardwood floor above. The temperature of the
water running in the tubing encased in concrete for the lower floors will be
90 degrees; the temperature of
the water in the tubing between the joists below the wood floors upstairs will be 160
degrees. Concrete absorbs heat more efficiently than wood.
bays of radiant tubing Gothic design at each end.